Traditional Toy Museum of Sardinia
The collection perfectly reflects the soul of the people, as well as being a unique revival of the historic memory and manufacturing culture of the ancient Sardinian agropastoral society. Created out of research conducted in 1993-96 by the middle schools of Ales, the main town in the Marmilla area perched on the slopes of the Monte Arci Park, inaugurated in 2002 and reopened in 2013 after restoration work, the traditional toy museum of Sardinia is unique among the museums in the region. It recreates the old-fashioned toys that our grandparents and parents played with as children, displaying handcrafted toys, made ‘at home’ with skill and care, using whatever materials were available. The museum itself is in Zeppara, a small village about one kilometre from the birthplace of one of the most influential 20th century European intellectuals, Antonio Gramsci - a charming village that has retained its original agropastoral architectural structure and is entirely surrounded by countryside.
Today, the museum preserves a representative and varied collection of toys with a genuine popular character, made with common natural materials.
The collection, organised by themes, accurately reconstructs the toys. Some imitate weapons, such as shotguns and slingshot, others means of transport, such as the ‘classic’ asphodel carriages; then there are dolls made of rags, raffia, pumpkins, toys to use in motion, such as cane horses, or that require throwing skills, such as spinning tops and pinwheels; some can make sounds, whistles and noises, others are used on festive occasions and, last of all, there are traps and other pastimes. They are very original, the result of popular creativity or belonging to an archaic culture: when you visit the museum, you can get a clear idea of how children played in Sardinian agropastoral society. The toys are displayed on natural display stands, built with local materials, such as intertwined reeds, which contribute to creating a magical and original atmosphere. The exhibition is supported by explanatory texts, providing the socio-cultural information about each toy, while a workshop area allows you to try them out.
The museum is a noteworthy cultural resource and a popular field trip for children, especially primary schools. The creation of a future 'Zeppara toyland' is being planned, as a real village-museum. There are numerous other famous museums nearby, with which the structure collaborates: in Ales - perhaps the smallest bishopric in Italy - there is the Treasure Museum of the majestic Cathedral of San Pietro (built in 1686) and the permanent film exhibition; in Pau there is the Obsidian Museum and there are numerous Nuragic remains in Barumini, Morgongiori and Villanovaforru.
Baia delle Mimose
Unlike the eastern side of Gallura, dotted with innumerable granite coves, the coast of Badesi on the western edge of Gallura boasts a wholly different landscape of long, wide, white beaches. One of the most characteristic and most beautiful of them all is the Baia delle Mimose. It is all of three kilometers long, starting at the south with the mouth of the Coghinas river and ending in the north where it fades seamlessly into its 'twin,' Li Junchi, both easily reachable by any means.
The Mimose is surrounded by dunes punctuated with small junipers and sea roses, the sand is white and the sea is iridescent, fluctuating between blue and emerald green. Thanks to the constant breeze, it is a popular destination for wind and kitesurfing enthusiasts. Given its size, even in high season it's never overly crowded, so it's perfect for relaxing in peace. In the distance on your right as you look out to sea you will catch a glimpse of Isola Rossa, while on your left you will see the outline of the Castelsardo promontory.
The beach is accessible to the disabled, there is parking, snack bars and beach equipment for hire. Thanks to the sheer beauty of the beach, the clarity of the water and the services available, since 2017 Baia delle Mimose has been continuously awarded the Blue Flag by the Foundation for Environmental Education (or FEE). Not far from the mouth of the Coghinas, a 300m2 stretch of beach also hosts a dog beach, where your four-legged buddies can play freely and enter the water, and even enjoy their very own umbrellas, showers and bowls.
But the beauty of the Badesi sea does not end here! Of note are also Li Mindi, with white sand and blue water from which, on a clear day, you can see the outlines of Corsica and Asinara, and Li Junchi, where the medium-fine sand is golden and the sea changes colour, just like at the Baia delle Mimose. Exposed to mistral and northeastern winds, it is another paradise for surfers and the sunsets here will take your breath away. Beyond the mouth of the river, you enter into Valledoria and the marine village of San Pietro a mare, a nature oasis blessed with golden dunes covered in Mediterranean scrub, green expanses and a seabed with a steep slope that is perfect for diving and snorkelling. A few steps from the shore, the Coghinas forms a lagoon that is the habitat of herons, ducks and mallards, while sea bass and mullet swim in the brackish waters.
Seui
A charming medieval village located at an altitude of 800 metres on the southern slopes of the Gennargentu massif. Around Seui, a village with one thousand 300 inhabitants, you can admire a varied landscape of colours that change according to the season. An enchanted world to travel through along trekking trails or on board the Trenino Verde tourist railway. The setting is made even more precious by the Montarbu forest: 2800 hectares between vertical rock faces and valleys furrowed by streams and waterfalls, like Serra Middai. It is a wildlife oasis, inhabited by the golden eagle, the deer, the fallow deer and the mouflon. During the climb up to Punta Margiani Pubusa (1325 metres), you can admire the sinkhole of Su Stampu and you will reach the monument of Perda Liana. Holm oaks cover half of the 15 thousand hectares of Seui territory, where there is an abundance of downy oaks, cork oaks and conifers on the peaks. An unusual feature is the forest of European hop-hornbeam and yew of Mount Tonneri. Chestnut trees, which take on a warm colour in the autumn, frame the village. There is prehistoric evidence set between cliffs and forests: the Nuraghe Ardasai stands out at an altitude of one thousand metres, with its central tower surrounded by walls, against which there are other towers. Around it, there are the remains of huts.
Seui is a 'village-museum', starting from the Palazzina Liberty (Art Nouveau building), a stately building that became an exhibition of art and popular traditions and reminders of mining activities are also kept here: the disused complex of Fundu e' Corongiu exploited the only deposits of anthracite on the Island and was active for over a century (1850-1960). The itinerary winds amidst the houses made from schist rock with arches, wrought iron balconies and tiled roofs that follow the direction of the little alleys as they twist their way through the village centre. From the building-museum you will pass by the Spanish jail, which was active from the middle of the 17th century until 1975: lodgings for the guards, a kitchen and three cells were the tools of justice (and of torture) for three centuries. Travelling along Via Roma, you will reach the Farci house-museum, where the writer and politician Filiberto Farci lived and who was a friend of Emilio Lussu and co-founder of the Sardinian Action Party. The last stop is at the civic gallery, inside S'Omu Comunali, the impressive civic building dating back to the end of the 19th century, full of works of art, among which valuable paintings by artists of the Caravaggio school. Little lanes and stone houses gravitate around the parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena, in which there is a marble baptismal font with friezes (1644) and an 'unusual' multi-coloured wooden statue of the saint. Inside the eighteenth-century church of San Giovanni Battista, there is the float on which the Madonna del Carmelo (Our Lady of Carmel) is transported in a procession during the most heartfelt festivity, at the end of July. At the end of June, in honour of the saint, there is Su Cardamponi (community lunch). Su Prugadoriu, the 'Sardinian Halloween' is famous, during the commemoration of the deceased. During the festivities you will be able to enjoy agricultural and pastoral traditional delicacies: culurgionis, civargèddus, chickpeas, lardo (a cold cut) and potatoes, pecora in capotto (a sheep meat speciality), còrda and peas, roast meats and cheeses.
The Marinedda
Its spectacular sand dunes are set between the cliffs of Isola Rossa and Punta Li Canneddi. The wonderful and extensive beach of Marinedda will strike you, with the contrast between its crystal clear waters, its light sand and the red granite of the towering cliffs with their various shapes. It is part of the same coastal stretch as the beach of Longa, which is part of the picturesque fishing village of Isola Rossa, in the territory of Trinità d’Agultu e Vignola.
The beach has light, white sand and slopes gently into the shallow waters, suitable for children to bathe and play in, while behind it there are dunes covered by Mediterranean vegetation. It is a famous beach for windsurfing enthusiasts and every year, in August, it hosts international speciality competitions. Part of it is equipped with deckchairs and beach umbrellas and it offers various services for water sports, as well as a sailing school. It can be accessed by the disabled, has ample parking, a campsite, hotels, bars and restaurants.
It is joined to the beautiful beach of Isola Rossa and it is near the little beach of Li Femini, which is next to the little harbour. Ten kilometres away, you will find Li Feruli (or Li Mindi), also in the territory of Isola Rossa, and the romantic bay of Li Tinnari, beach of the Costa Paradiso, hidden away between the granite rocks and formed by little red and grey trachyte stones, which you can reach on foot or via the sea.
Casa Gramsci
Antonio Gramsci lived in the old town centre of Ghilarza, between 1898 and 1914, and was the creator and founder of the Italian Communist Party, as well as one of the most influential twentieth century European intellectuals. His modest dwelling brings to mind the image of a family that, in a situation of financial difficulty, transmitted to him the values on which his work was later established. He spent his childhood and adolescence here, educated by his cultured and sensitive mother. He attended primary school in Ghilarza, junior school in Santu Lussurgiu and secondary school in Cagliari, where he started participating in 'battles' for the establishment of free thought. His cultural interests, reading and inclination towards science and mathematics made him stand out. He started to write, after being noticed by the director of the Unione Sarda newspaper. He concluded his studies brilliantly and moved to Turin but his interest in his homeland remained alive in his mind.
In 1965, the Italian Communist Party bought his house in Ghilarza, making it a centre of documentation and research. In order to transform it into a museum, fundamental work was carried out by his nieces and by intellectuals, among whom Vando Aldovrandi. The promotion of events celebrating Gramsci are also their merit: on 27 April, Ghilarza becomes a meeting place and one in which homage is paid to an ideologist who has been translated all over the world. The house is the headquarters of the association that manages the museum. At the end of 2016, the Fondazione Casa Gramsci was created.
The journey through the museum, with images, documents, personal effects and statements will allow you to relive the significant stages of his life: study and thinking, journalistic and political activities, imprisonment and illness. It is organized into six rooms, spread over two floors. In the first room, there is an enlarged reproduction of the letter he wrote to his mother, in which he talks about doing his time in prison for not having changed his opinions. Following on, there is the former kitchen, now a place for meetings and study. A third room contains the library: three thousand books on the history of the labour movement and Gramsci's thinking and work. From the entrance, a staircase will take you to the upper floor, where a bedroom from that period has been reconstructed. In a tape library, there are statements made by forty historical and influential personalities who knew him. On a wall, there is a reproduction of the prison cell in Turi, where he was locked up.
Cala Sinzias
A small cove that opens its beauties beyond a thick eucalypt grove, protected by a promontory that offers a spectacular view of the turquoise horizon. The Cala Sinzias beach, 15 kilometres from Villasimius and 7 from Costa Rei, is part of the territory of Castiadas. The cove is a 2-km strip of fine, soft sand, deep and very white, incredibly clear seabed that drops quickly, and crystalline waters with various blue hues, marked by Goletta Verde of Legambiente as one of the cleanest in Sardinia. The beach is dotted with a few rocks, providing the landscape with a variety typical of the eastern coast. Behind it, thick vegetation: junipers, mastics, olive trees, pine trees and eucalypts.
If you love road trips, Cala Sinzias is perfect for you: a parking space equipped for campers and two famous camping sites right in front of the beach. The very wide beach makes it possible to relax in absolute tranquillity and to walk along the shoreline or swim in the deep water, with all services available: parking, beach equipment for rent, bars and restaurants. The beach is accessible to disabled persons, and its sea is so rich that it is a beloved destination of experienced and amateur scuba divers. Beaten by the wind, it is also a popular surfing destination. All 13 kilometres of the Castiadas coast immersed in green are some of the island’s most beautiful areas, with a succession of white-sanded and bright-coloured landscapes. The southern tip of Cala Sinzias is the Cappuccino rock. There begins a little piece of paradise: the Cala Pira beach, with soft sandy dunes and intense Mediterranean scents. To the north, there is Punta San Pietro, with another wide and marvellous beach. Beyond begins the very long coast of Costa Rei, ten kilometres of fine, golden sand that gradually dive into a sea that is the colour of the sky. The territory of Castiadas includes the beaches of Monte Turno, Sant’Elmo, and Santa Giusta, all the way to the Scoglio di Peppino, coastal boundary with Muravera.
Rena Bianca
A paradise with bright colours and clear waters only a short walk from the town centre. The Rena Bianca is the city beach of Santa Teresa Gallura, a cove 700 metres long, with shallow waters and thin, soft, white (as its name states) sand that has pink reflections on the shoreline, thanks to minuscule coral fragments. You can see it from the top of a hill where the main piazza of this seaside town opens up, and you will be excited to get down there, at the bottom of a 300-m descent and a set of stairs, which you will climb down all at once.
The beach is framed by cliffs and perfumed by the Mediterranean scrub. The Municca peninsula and the Municchedda islet protect it from the western wind, while the promontory where the 16th-century Torre di Longonsardo stands protects it from the eastern wind. The fresh, silver waters awe visitors with their thousand hues from blue to turquoise and green, and are always incredibly clear. The Rena Bianca has been awarded the Blue Flag by the Foundation for Environmental Education due to the quality of its waters, immaculate coasts and services that provide tourists with comfort and safety. Beloved by divers and children, the beach is accessible to disabled people and is rich with services, wide parking area and restaurants. Beach resources rent beach equipment, sunbathing chairs and underwater exploration.
There are other gems to be explored in the Santa Teresa territory: to the east of the town, in the northernmost tip of the island, there are picturesque Cala Sanbuco, beautiful Cala Balcaccia and La Marmorata, wide and well equipped. Towards Palau, the natural granitic pools of Valle dell’Erica, the very long Porto Liscia-Sciumara, home of windsurf, and the enchanting peace of Conca Verde. To the west, there is Capo Testa, a peninsula-promontory connected to the mainland by a strip of sand that creates two beaches, Rena di Ponente (or Taltana) and Rena di Levante. In the same promontory, enjoy the spectacular Valle della Luna and Cala Grande. Near the rocky coves of Santa Reparata and, along the coastal road to Castelsardo, lovely Lu Pultiddolu, from which you can get to the dune of Rena Majore, in the Aglientu territory.
Laerru
Laerru arises in the heart of the Anglona historical region, on the slope of a hill detached from the southern edge of the Tanca Manna plateau. Laerru is a village of less than 1,000 inhabitants in the province of Sassari, having very ancient origins. The name perhaps derives from the Latin alaternus, an evergreen shrub typical of the area. It was once called Laerro, which belonged to the Giudicato of Torres until 1272, before then passing to the influence of the Doria family. After the Catalan-Aragonese conquest, the fortunes of the town were connected to the Oliva family until 1843. A number of 19th-century buildings have been preserved within its historic appearance. The most important building is the parish church of Santa Margherita, constructed in the 16th century in late-Gothic style and later modified. To be admired today are the two Gothic-Aragonese chapels. The patron saint is celebrated in July. Another monument is the oratory of the Rosary, built in the 17th century in Baroque style. The economy is mainly agricultural-pastoral, with the cultivation of grains, fruit trees and vines together with sheep and cattle breeding. During the feast of San Giovanni, at the end of June, there is a banquet based on boiled sheep. Local handicrafts are renowned. What distinguishes this town is the ‘radica sarda’ (root) with which pipes of great value are produced, famous all over the world.
The territory is characterised by the alternation of rugged hills and verdant plains. The Tanca Manna plateau is rich in springs and caves, such as the Conca ‘e Caddu and su Coloru, one of the largest Sardinian karst caves. Particularly striking is the petrified forest of Monte Ultana, a veritable pre- Nuragic and Nuragic archaeological park with various Domus de Janas, a Tomb of Giants, a Nuragic temple, an imposing Nuragic structure surrounded by a village (and also a 4th-century Christian tomb). Another striking site is the Tomba di Bopitos, a megalithic funerary construction attributable to the 3rd millennium BC. The first traces of human settlements in the territory were found, rather, in the Rio Altana, dating back to the Lower Paleolithic. Also of great interest are the dozens of additional Nuraghic structures, some of which are in excellent condition. Not far from the village, in Santa Vittoria, there are the remains of a Castrum and Roman Tombs.
Villacidro
Once a 'mountain village', famous for the healthy air, now a modern little town that maintains its agricultural and pastoral traditions and produces excellent olive oil, wines, from which a fine liquor is made, and cherries, to which a famous feast is dedicated in June. Villacidro, a large town in the Medio Campidano province with 14 thousand inhabitants, stands where the plain makes way for the spurs of Monte Linas. Its wealth is its natural beauty, including: the valleys of Coxinas and Villascema, lush woods, among which the forest of Montimannu, dolomitic landscapes, meadows of asphodel and hills covered with Mediterranean scrub. The territory is filled with torrents that form spectacular waterfalls. The most famous, a holiday destination of the poet Gabriele D'Annunzio, is sa Spendula, a 'blade' of water that splits the rock between oleanders and holm oaks, making three consecutive drops. Along the trails of the Monte Linas-Oridda plateau-Marganai complex, a park ideal for trekking, tours by bike or on horseback, the show goes on with the waterfalls of the Linas rivulet, Piscina Irgas, that plunges after a drop of 45 metres, and Muru Mannu (in the territory of Gonnosfanadiga), the most impressive on the Island (70 metres high).
Villacidro is firmly anchored to the values of the past, celebrated by the writer Giuseppe Dessì, its most illustrious citizen, to whom the Dessì cultural park is dedicated within Monte Linas: the landscapes are those glorified by the works of the winner of the Strega Prize (1972). On the subject of culture, don’t miss out on a visit to the museum of sacred art, the pharmaceutical museum sa Potecarìa, and the archaeological museum of Villa Leni, once a grain bank. In it, there is evidence of a territory inhabited in the Neolithic period, then in the Copper Age and the Bronze Age (the Nuragic village of Cottega and various nuraghi) and in the Roman period (one necropolis and the ruins of two thermal baths), when the first residential area may have appeared, that of villa citra, the 'villa on this side of the river'. In town and in the countryside, among the religious buildings, two that stand out are the church of San Sisinnio (17th century), set between centuries-old olive trees, and the parish church of Santa Barbara, of sixteenth-century origin. Still remaining from its original Gothic-Catalan layout, there are the bell tower and the capilla mayor (choir) with a stellar vault, not affected by the renovation at the end of the 17th century, giving the church a Neoclassical appearance. During the 18th century it was enriched by prestigious furniture, like the main altar. The public washhouse, which was inaugurated in 1893, is worth visiting: its roof, which is supported by cast iron columns, protects 36 tanks clad with trachyte. The residential centre comes to life with various events, among which the Fuochi di Sant'Antonio Abate in mid-January and the celebration of is Animeddas (or Mortu mortu) at Halloween: Villacidro is traditionally known as the 'village of the witches'.