Departure is from Vignola Mare and arrival is at La Caletta di Siniscola, passing through the well-known towns of the Costa Smeralda. You will follow an itinerary that takes you into the heart of Gallura and shows you every aspect of it. The link between them is represented by the coastal defence towers, built in the north and the east by the Spanish Crown to oppose the barbarian incursions. Today, they embellish the landscape as they look out onto heavenly beaches and picturesque seaside villages.
Itinerary: 160 km
Journey time: 33 hrs, spread over 6 days
The route starts at the fascinating tower of Vignola, built to guard an antique tuna fishery. The path heading in the northeastern direction ‘plays’ at moving towards the sea and then away from it, and then lets you admire the light sand and the transparent sea of Rena Majori. Back inland, in the midst of the greenery and wide valleys, crossing Santa Teresa Gallura from south to north and passing by some fascinating archaeological remains, you can end this leg of the journey by admiring the scenery from the terrace of the majestic Tower of Longonsardo, with a view of the beach of Rena Bianca.
Small villages, such as Ruoni and Porto Pozzo, and remote rural churches are dotted across the landscape from Santa Teresa to Palau. After a long stretch featuring jagged rocks, dry stone walls, a few roadman’s houses and buildings made from granite blocks, you will come across the boats in front of the Sciumara beach and the first houses of Palau. You can enter the village or prolong the route a little by taking the scenic road to the south with a magnificent view of the coast, after which you will reach the legendary Roccia dell’Orso (Bear Rock), symbol of Palau and a ‘lookout post’ on the sea.
Then you can carry on walking near the shoreline in the territory of Arzachena, passing through the cove of Li Capanni and the beaches of La Mannena and Tanca Manna. Next, you will cross Cannigione, heading south, and then you will suddenly turn left. After crossing the San Giovanni rivulet, the path leads you towards the Cugnana massif: the picturesque village of San Pantaleo awaits you and is a fascinating mixture of tradition and glamour just a stone’s throw from the Costa Smeralda.
No watchtowers were built along this stretch of coastline, but there is certainly no lack of breathtaking landscapes. You will pass Mount Cugnana and the southern shore of the gulf of the same name on your way to Olbia. After a visit to the Basilica of San Simplicio and the ruins dating back to the Roman era, you will cross the district of Murta Maria and, to conclude this leg of the journey, you can admire the wonderful colours of the sea of Porto Istana, surrounded by pink granite, with the islands of Tavolara and Molara on the horizon.
You will continue to be drawn to the view of the beaches in the protected marine area of Tavolara-Punta Coda Cavallo accompanying you on your left. You will cross Porto San Paolo, Monte Petrosu and Lu Fraili before moving along the long strip of white sand of La Cinta. You will then pass between the houses of San Teodoro and alongside Porto Ottiolu and Agrustos, finally reaching the village of Budoni and admiring its splendid coastline and rich natural habitat.
The next inhabited area is Posada, which you will enter after crossing the river of the same name and where you can admire the legendary Castello della Fava. Travelling alongside the Longu pond, you will reach the marine district of San Giovanni and the northernmost coastal tower on the eastern coast of Sardinia: the tower of San Giovanni, which today looks out over the tourist harbour. A few kilometres separate it from the final leg of the journey, the tower of Santa Lucia, in the coastal district of the same name in Siniscola.